FRED is an odd name to bestow on one of the most costly and exquisite jewellery boutiques in the world. But despite the moniker lacking in semantic pulchritude, Fred Joallierie is nonetheless a sought after feature of the big screen scene. Produced and directed by father and son team, Fred and Henri Samuel, this international blockbuster attraction has its centre stage on Paris' renowned landmark, the Rue Royale.

It is an art deco that personifies real beauty in jewellery. The theme is synonymous with a refined art de vivre. The climax is uncompromising creativity and excellence. Set against a Parisian backdrop, the paradise for lovers of luxury, with 12 boutique scenes and a crew of 150 from the U.S., and Switzerland to the South of France, the technicolour vision is a spectacular: each frame a deluxe image.

Although as French today as baguettes (diamond) and champagne, South America was the scene of the family's familiarisation with precious gems, a connection that would eventually lead to FRED's acclaim as having sold some of the world's largest single stones. "My grandfather was a jeweller", says the softly spoken Henri. "He had two stores in Buenos Aires but at the last part of his life, he wanted to come back to his homeland. So, he sold his jewellery and his stores and...he came back to Paris".

And so the Frenchman returned, along with his twelve year old son, Fred who later adopted his father's occupation as his own. In 1936, the year also of his own son Henri's, backstage debut into the world, Fred Samuel opened his first boutique at No.6 rue Royale. As the lynchpin of his wares was a natural gem for which he had an abiding passion and whose intrinsic value had previously evaded jewellers before him. FRED proudly premiered the Japanese cultured pearl to the local market and as the neo-nacreous counterpart quickly stole the limelight from its predecessor, the natural pearl, both Frenchmen and foreigners very quickly warmed to the young jeweller bewitched by his taste and knowledge.

"It was a very big beginning", declares Henri with characteristic understatement, but this influential preview opened doors to the leading lights of an evanescent clique. Maurice Chevalier, Marlene Dietrich and Sacha Guitry were amongst the stars of the day who flocked to FRED's doors under the monosyllabic canopy that Henri rationalises as "catchy, and easy to remember. It is certainly not the best name for a jewellery store but it works!"

Whilst his father spent the following three decades consolidating a formidable reputation and clientele, Henri was busy being educated and training in business administration at the prestigious Ecole Superieure de Commerce de Paris (ESCP). He finally joined his father in the business in 1962 whereupon side by side they embarked upon a campaign of expansion of both the retail outlets and the product ranges. Together they opened new stores in Paris on the Champs Elysees, in Cannes and in Monte Carlo with the vocal support of the now long list of prestigious clients who have subsequently become friends. They organised and participated in countless exhibitions in Europe's cultural and creative capitals. Even today sixty years after the opening of his first boutique and with his son firmly ensconced in the director's chair, Fred Samuel is a familiar sight in the corridors of FRED's international headquarters on rue Royale.

"It is not always easy to follow in the footsteps of your father", says Henri, "but once you have decided to do it and you've grown up with it, then I think that the best thing that one can build is a family business.
"We have a natural confidence in each other which is not always easy to build in people who do not belong to the same family. We share the same way of saying things and jewellery customers are very much sensitive to the place and people they are dealing with - it is much easier to go from father to son, or from one brother to another, than from one employee to another employee".

In 1971, the father and son team marked the thirty-fifth anniversary of FRED by restoring the facade of the headquarters which proudly bears the architectural magnificence conceived by Gabriel for the place de la Concorde and the rue Royale in the eighteenth century. Despite the strong international presence from Houston to the Middle East, the historic landmark that is the rue Royale today, is still the preferred focus of operations as Henri will happily explain.

"The fact that Paris is an international place means that about 70-75% of our customers are foreigners. A very large spectrum of our clientele in the Paris store are American, Mexican, Arabic... they come from every part of the globe. If you look into the traditional fame of French fashion, you see the reason it is famous is because it encompasses influences from all over the world. So, in terms of prospective customers we can absorb some of their culture and then give it back to them in creation". For Henri the nexus between customer and creation is therefore a two way incentive.

Amidst so much competition, FRED's progress has been carefully plotted to achieve a permanent place in a very elite pantheon as one of the ten largest prestige jewellers in the world. When Henri Samuel became President and Chairman of FRED Joaillier in 1976, he heralded a coming year in which he affirmed the longheld association with artists from varying mediums but likeminded creativity. He also stamped 'international' indelibly on the company. In June 1977, the first international store was opened on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills (Richard Gere would some time later present Julia Roberts with a substantial trinket from a satin FRED jewellery box in the film 'Pretty Woman' sourced from the wealthy urban cowboys favourite shopping mall); and, at the request of renowned art dealer, Daniel Wildenstein, FRED framed in silver and lapis frames, thirty goldplated copper plates of Picasso's 'Metamorphoses d'Ovide' engraved by the artist in 1930 and presented to the public here for the first time. Additionally, Henri's own passion for precious stones was illustrated when he acquired 'Le Soleil d'Or' a yellow diamond of a mammoth 105,54 carats which he presented for one evening only in a special salon at the rue Royale store. The glitter and notoriety of such occasions belie the careful evolution of FRED's fortunes and status which have been masterminded by a forward thinking but practical Henri. Diversification has since taken the form of watches, special collections in "FRED" de FRED and a more accessible range of jewels in Force 10.

"I think that we have been very creative but also we have had an advantage over many others in that we have been a small boutique which has become larger at the time when most established jewellers wanted to create small boutiques", explains Henri. "It has therefore been a natural move for us. Already we had a range of models that were more accessible to more people from the beginning. We did not start out as a bold, big business and then try to effect small boutiques from that. Certainly, important pieces made up part of our business but we have developed major pieces with easy access as well as jewellery for everyday use. Even our broad distribution to many new places has grown slowly, as time has passed".

Today, as in the past, FRED's repertory plays to a full-house of international travellers, aristocrats, monarchs and showbiz celebrities as well as a general public gallery. From Monegasque royalty in the Princesses Caroline and Stephanie, to the movie star contingent, loyal since 1936 and with an added supplement of more recent luminaries. Arnold Schwarzenegger, Michael J. Fox, Charles Bronson, Brooke Shields, Catherine Deneuve, Donald Sutherland, Yves Montand, Julie Andrews, Franco Zeffirelli, Claude Lelouche, nightclub diva Regine and T.V. anchorman Dan Rather amongst others are frequent patrons at FRED's around the world.

The denouncement is the artistry of art de vivre; the plot, to create it; and the subplot, a continued close appreciation and association with other fine masters and to characterise their works. This is seen in the restored architecture of the rue Royale premises; the butterfly with moveable wings of enamel and gold masterminded in full accord with one of Bernard Buffet's paintings, the Wildenstein commission, the realisation of jewels from the designs of Jean Cocteau; a Braque exhibition, and a choreographed retrospective of 20th century Chagall masterpieces. Says Henri of the uncommon frequency of such marriages: "I don't consider that being in this industry is just to buy and sell. It is to create pieces with the hope that some of them will become as a piece of art in itself".

A man of many talents and one other abiding passion besides precious stones, the sea has figured prominently in both Henri's private and professional lives. He is himself a former European champion in the Olympic dinghy class (the Flying Dutchman) and FRED has sponsored the French team in the America's Cup. In fact, the creation of FRED's Force 10 line grew out of Henri's love of the ocean and through his years as a sailing champion. Initially designed in 1978, the Force 10 range is an exclusive collection of jewellery and watches for men and women made of stainless steel, nautical cable and 18 ct gold. The steel cable becomes a precious metal as well as the integral feature enhanced by diamonds and a precious stones with matching bracelets, earrings and necklaces, it is modern, dressy yet casually so and designed for active chic. Force 10 today, makes up 15% of FRED's total sales.

Henri is an active supporter of amateur sports, an involvement which he reinforced in 1982 when he initiated the FRED Challenge of Golf which rapidly became the most important amateur gold tournament in France. Today, 12 tournaments are organised each year hosting 3500 of France's best amateur players. He further cemented transatlantic relations in 1986 when the FRED Golf Tournament began in the U.S. American and French winners then met in France for the inaugural FRED French American Golfing Challenge. The creation of fabulous jewellery is, Henri says, "a different kind of challenge, a different kind of race".

FRED could also be seen at the Automobile Club De France where the international press was gathered to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the company. Henri took the opportunity to mark the occasion by presenting 'Soleil de Paris', a jonquille diamond of 70 carats. In the same year FRED could be seen in conjunction with the Committee of Renovation of the Statue of Liberty editing a special numbered poster to be sold on behalf of the committee and in creating a limited and numbered gold pendant in which a facsimile of France's eternal gift to the U.S. was displayed. He is also the founder and Chairman of the Comite Royale, an association created to promote the boutiques and shops of the rue Royale.

At many auspicious occasions often completely unrelated to jewels, FRED and, Henri have been there. Equating FRED with images of chic, sporting excellence, culture, government, haute society and haute couture is an art in itself.

In fact, Henri is himself often likened to a grand couturier for he is first and foremost a conceptual designer. To maintain the company's commitment to excellence, at the level thus attained, Henri oversees all aspects of the organisation and works closely with the designers. Henri the administrator, Henri the designer, both epithets sit comfortable with FRED Joailler as a corporation but Henri's own love is to hold the precious stone in his hand and await in his mind's eye the visualisation of the outcome of both its design and the woman who will be fortunate enough to do it justice

"I am involved with the craftsmen and the designers but any important pieces that come out of FRED have always been the result of my working very closely on them, from the choice of stone to the creation of the pieces. The creation part of the jewellery is really the most fascinating part of this business...to be able to create, to imagine, and to come up with something which is an artistic pieces.

"I think the inspiration is, as we say, l'air du temps...it is just something that you carry within yourself. If you are just looking around, trying to get inspiration from someone else, then I don't think that you are a true designer. You have your own feeling of the moment and you hope that your evolution will be appreciated by your customers. Also I am sure that the more you travel, the more that you are open to everything. It is the best chance you have to stay within your own perception and remain part of the world as well. You must be accessible to different styles of life and to different places".

Often the design begins with a request reflecting the client's wants and needs thereby marrying the natural beauty of the gem with specific desire. The result is always the ultimate presentation. "In Paris and New York, a lot of customers like to have specially made things and they have a very good idea of what they would like", says Henri. "We work with them, try to capture their feelings to make their special piece. Many times, the best pieces that we do are those made especially for one person".

Such rarefied examples, can come in the form of ersatz floral spectaculars that call as much upon the skills of the special effects magician as they do the master craftsman. Such was a necklace ordered to complement a magnificent embroidered Christian Dior bridal gown resplendent in floral regalia. The matching neck-piece was designed in full blooms and at the centre of each flower, a 5 carat gem! The very notion of richer or poorer is entirely put of place in such nuptials but the basic splendour was superceded by a grand bouquet of ornamental flowers engineered to include a mains control where from a distance, a simple push of the button gracefully opened and closed each cluster of jewelled petals! A new scribe would well be called upon to amend the age old vow to rites more in keeping with a French penchant for luxuriance. FRED might act as the sole solemnisor. "I think that Paris is best known as having the best reputation for doing this kind of thing", says Henri. Few of the congregation would doubt this assertion.

It is feats of craftsmanship and design such as this that are extreme examples of the calibre of Henri's artisans. He will often comment of a particular piece: "the back is even better than the front", thereby paying homage to a less appreciated art. "We love to have people who say 'we come to you because we adore your design' and not say how much a piece costs or what weight it is", says Henri of the accolade he most prefers to receive. "Those who are only concerned with the price or the value are not the types of customer we like to work with for they do not understand the intrinsic value of the workmanship".

Rarity is obviously at a premium at FRED for although the rich and famous are happy to desport a Force 10 timepiece for practical - and stylish - purposes, for the paparrazzi, one of the heavyweight stones, breathtaking neckpieces or, one of only three jewelled evening bags that are produced by FRED each year. All unique, they are purely works of art, similar to Faberge pieces and usually sell before completion. The ticket price to reserve one of these uncut specialities...as much as $400,000!

The FRED look is a distinct wide spectrum. Avant garde yet classical, predominant designs embrace both ultrafashionable youthfulness and refined sophistication appealing to seekers of discriminating style.

Rare gems, the unique FRED DE FRED jewellery sets and collectors items coupled with a complete specialised boutique range including watches, perfume, luxury accessories and gift items, the full-length picture of prestigious opulence proves that considered specialisation and careful diversification can also equate with market success. Accordingly Fred's splicing of artistic reactivity with commercial ingenuity has earned its supremacy and elevated status award, certifying wealth, a haute monde membership and a prominent position amidst a rich and famous generic el dorado.

A reputation with stones is an accolade on its own. When FRED engaged the "Soleil d'Or' during a dinner with Margaux Hemingway, to launch the diamond to the press Henri Samuel showed her this luscious delicacy. After trying on the diamond she pretended to have lost it. Her table companions scurried frantically about the floor looking for it, relieved when the priceless stone reappeared in her mouth!
Several of these tasteful starlets have indeed had bit parts as gateaux surprises. For the 35th anniversary of the rue Royale salon, 35 precious stones were hidden in the birthday cake offered to the invitees. All but two of these stellar decorations were recovered - the missing duo were suspected digested by two very hungry, or even one hungrier guest thus curtailing short but meteoric solo careers.

A more composed but equally delectable 275 carat Sapphire aptly named "The Blue Moon" and purportedly the largest cut sapphire available languished on Fred's drawing boards, for two and a half years whilst being groomed to star in an appropriate vehicle - ultimately an award-winning necklace.

The regalement continues with a 55 carat diamond, the largest intense diamond in its class, and a pendant drop encasing a 113 carat heart-shaped emerald surrounded with diamonds. The feast of museum quality gems does not end there. Included also on the programme is a 43.50 carat emerald set with diamonds in a ring, for sale at an icy cool $495,000!

For Henri to add that he always looks for exceptional stones, is the most practiced understatement. But then again, on Henri's playbill of priorities, the priceless riches of beauty far outweighs the monetary avoirdupois of mere wealth. "The amount of money builds a sort of excitement, each time you break a record you make another record but it is not what we are looking for solely. We are looking for the beauty of jewellery first".

Some of the world's most remarkable women have adorned themselves with FRED before making timely appearances at auspicious occasions thus fashioning an indelible connection between FRED, glamour and chic. On leaving hospital after the birth of her first son, Andrea, Princess Caroline of Monaco was pictured wearing a FRED Force 10 bracelet, a congratulatory gift from her father, Prince Rainier. And when Princess Stephanie wore a FRED mother-of-pearl and diamond necklace to the "Bal de la Croix Rouge" she had her own enclosure of lady buyers, eager to purchase the piece but, as in any event, only one won.

Understudies in 1988 to the Force 10 troupe were the first pair of sunglasses and the prototype of the first chronograph. A dramatic introduction, they were worn by the famous rally world champion, Ari Vatanew, during the difficult Paris-Dakar race. With the force of ten, the road to stardom was also another road victory for both driver and eyewear.

Henri has an eye for up-and-coming stars. Cameo parts were launched on the Paris stage in 1989 for the "Fredys' a whimsical collection of pins representing animals and symbolic characters. Overnight they became a fashion success story.

And FRED continues to grow. The list of credits is an outstanding tribute to two generations of directors and their now international corporation. But what may appear to be instant success stories today, are in reality the culmination of 55 years of constant, careful maturation and nurturing. Today, with sales in excess of $53 million worldwide, FRED is certainly not looking back but, neither will they rest on the credits as they roll on screen. "I think we have a long way to go because the use of jewellery goes back to antiquity and even before, so there's no reason to think that in the next millenium, there won't be a need for it", says Henri. "There is no limit to this industry". And the lion roars.